In August and September of 2003 I took my first long motorcycle ride. In March of 2003 I purchased a 1999 BMW R1100RT. My only previous motorcycle was a Yamaha V-Star 650 custom cruiser.
In 2002 I started reading a BMW sport touring discussion board BMWST.com. This story was originally posted on that site in about 18 parts, as I edited them for posting. I wrote this story as I travelled, then edited it and posted it on the BMWST.com site.
Please enjoy this tale. It was a transformative ride for me. My life gained a new focus and has been interesting since this ride.
Prologue
This is going to be long. It's over 10,000 words which is about 18 pages in a standard MS Word document. I hope it's worth your time to read. It was an amazing incredible life changing experience. I came to understand that the way we get to know each other is by sharing our riding experiences. Well here is mine. I will be posting it in several pieces over a few days.
Monday August 11, 2003: T-Minus 3 Days
I made the decision to ride down to Deal's Gap and ride The Tail of the Dragon with Shawn, Lone_RT_Rider, and some other members of the board. Getting out of town had been a long time in coming. I bought the RT this past March with the intention of getting in some long distance riding, but life has changed and it looks likes like I'm going to get to do a lot of riding. Suffice it to say I was thinking about riding the whole month of August, but things didn't work out to get me on the road, then I saw Shawn's query of wether anyone would like to get together at Deal's Gap and I took it as the motivator to get on the road. I had tires on order and they should be in on Wednesday. God willing if they show up on time and I get them mounted I will be on the road to Deal's Gap first thing Thursday morning.
Wednesday August 13, 2003: T-Minus 1 Day
Got a call. The tires are here. That's the good news. Bad news they can't mount them until tomorrow. No amount of cajoling, groveling or begging is getting me anywhere. So, decision time. I won't be able to leave in the morning like I want to, do I try and make it anyway. It's 885 miles from my place to the rendezvous point with Shawn and company. I've never done a ride of this distance before, ever, not even in a car. So, I start doing laundry, packing and making my list. My friend Moose and I put our heads together to see if I've forgotten anything and it looks like I'm ready. Now I just need to get the tires changed, and stash my car at a friends house.
Thursday August 14, 2003: T-Minus 5 Hours
The bike is at the shop on time. Time to stash the car. My father has scheduling complications. Call Moose! Moose is clear. Head to my friends house to drop off the car and have Moose ride me back. Fifteen minutes late, no Moose. Thirty minutes late, no Moose! One hour late! NO MOOSE! Finally he rides into the parking lot. Off we go back to my house. Call the garage. Bike's ready. Go pick up the bike. Put the top case on and stash a few final things in the side bags.
Thursday August 14, 2003: T-Plus One Hour -- Lift Off
With the delay in dropping off the car I'm an hour behind schedule. Oh well. Time to put some miles on the odometer. Rest the odometer. I won't reset it until I return. I head out the NYS Thruway from Albany, NY to I-88 to Binghamton, NY. I bought a Camel Bak for this ride and it worked very well. I-88 is a very open piece of highway with very very low LEO presence. (ie. I didn't see a single one.) I'm making very good time heading South to Binghamton. The wide open road has some nice views of the Catskills to the east in some spots and in general is a nice road.
Return to Civilization???
Time for a break and some more water. So I head off the highway to a gas station. I pull in and there are a bunch of people milling around and there seems to be a general air of confusion. Hmmm... confusion in the craft, what's going on here I think. I strip off the gloves and helmet and the attendants tell me the store is closed, "no power. No ones got power. The whole east coast is out." Well now that's news. I'm on the bike for two hours and the world goes to hell and I miss it live on CNBC! Damn, where's the Dow?!? What a day to be trading. Oh well, another day. Guess I'll have to watch the film at 11:00. Finally someone pulls in who says there's power one exit south and that there is power in PA. So, south I go.
One exit south the gas station is swamped with people buying gas and ice. It seems like everyone decided it was time to fill up. Well, I top off, just to be sure and head south.
At Binghamton, NY I get onto I-81 South, this will be my main route for a long time. I over night in some town south of Wilkes-Barre, PA. This is my first real trip on the RT, so I don't have a routine yet. I want to be off the highway by 8:00 everyday, I don't care much for riding at night. So, I find a room and started watching the news. OMG, glad I wasn't in NY anymore. I call home and the power is on and off for them. Not much fun. I have some servers online at home. I have someone turn them off for the duration. I'll deal with it later.
I did about 250 miles, not bad for starting at 3:00 in the afternoon and running into construction in PA. I should have expected it, seeing as it's the "Construction State."
Friday, August 15, 2003: The Long Haul
I'm not a real morning person. So, in planning the riding day either I had to leave real early to miss rush hour in Harrisburg, PA, or sleep in a little and sail through after the rush. Sleep in. That was easy. This is going to be my big day. By calculation on Yahoo! Maps it is 885 miles portal to portal. I have 250 under my belt, so I think maybe I can complete the ride this day. I've never really run this hard before, so I'll take it as it comes. Well 500 miles or so of slab later I'm in Bristol, VA, about five miles from the TN border.
Today marks my arrival in the south. As I crossed into MD from PA there were the typical welcome signs, then a bit further down the road were the signs for the Mason Dixon line. I find it interesting the symbolism that attaches itself to this line. My real introduction to the south though was the delightful waitress at the restaurant in Bristol. Southerners really know hospitality. Did I mention that I love The South?
Saturday, August 16, 2003: Arrival in Franklin, NC
I head south on I-81 again, missed the exit I wanted to take. So, I take the next exit, check the map, and I head east on TN-81 to Erwin, TN. Hmm... maybe a GPS would have been a good idea. This is my first experience on back roads in The South. The first thing I notice is that signage is different then in NY. In NY it seems like every curve has an advisory speed. Things aren't like this in TN, and as I was to find out, NC. Getting used to this takes some doing. I'm so used to being able to trust the signs and go at a very brisk pace, knowing that if I need to slow there will be a warning sign.
All during the ride down I-81 I saw mountains at a distance, but never got into them. It was quite hazy both on Thursday and Friday, but I was getting clues as to what was in store. At Erwin, TN I get on I-26 South. This is a beautiful interstate highway, great surface, incredible views. All in all an amazing road. This is what I'd come to the mountains for, but there was so much more in store.
I arrive in Franklin, NC, about 950 miles from home. The longest ride I've ever done. One milestone down, longest ride.
A Spin Around the Block
After settling in I decide I need to check out the neighborhood. I head out around 5:00 PM or so. I head up NC-28 toward Deals Gap. Maybe I'll go take a look. NC-28 is a great road, and gave me hints of what was to come. Just north of Franklin it's a fairly moderate road with moderate curves. I'm still getting used to the lack of caution signs and I'm coming up on a curve when I realized it's a hard 90 degree left hander. I slow and lean into the first of many miles of twisties and hairpin curves. Wow! So, this is what people speak of when they write about twisties. Damn! We don't have roads like this in NY. At least not that I've found. Second gear... rear brake... slow... lean... throttle... repeat for miles. This is what mountain riding is all about. This road is testing my abilities beyond anything I've imagined. My legs are burning. I'm working up a sweat. Damn these are tight. Hmm... have I gotten myself in too deep? I thought I had some clue about what twisties were, boy was I wrong. This is the most intense riding I've ever done.
Having had enough of the real tight stuff for my first day I turn south at the NC-28 US-19 intersection and took US-19 south through the Nantahala Gorge. There was a bit of traffic on this road, but nothing that was too onerous. I understand that the traffic here can be pretty bad. This area is just amazingly beautiful. The road runs right along the river meandering back and forth. The vegetation is so lush. I've spent a lot of time in the Adirondacks in NY, and they are also beautiful, but the difference for me is where the beauty lies.
I wound my way back to Franklin on NC-141 South to US-64 East. My spin around the block had turned into a 100 mile ride. This just seems to happen since I've gotten the RT.
Sunday, August 17, 2003: Rendezvous and Ride
We planned to meet in Franklin, NC at 10:00 AM and head to Deals Gap. I arrived at the rendezvous point and Chris K and Mark Davis (madavis) were there waiting, and shortly Shawn (Lone_RT_Rider) appeared. Four RT's from three states, two from Georgia, one from Detroit, MI and mine from Troy, NY. Just a typical BMW group as someone pointed out.
We head north on NC-28. This was my second ride on it. Chris and Shawn went first, followed by myself and Mark. Chris and Shawn quickly disappear when we hit the twisties. Ride my ride. I'm maintaining what I think is a brisk pace, but nothing like what those guys are maintaining. I have a lot to learn. The whole day taught me that. The RT will lean farther then I'm comfortable with at this point. I intellectually know there is a long way to go, but I get to a certain point and I think I've reached the limits. I think some of this is left over from my days of riding my Yamaha V-Star cruiser. That bike would drag pegs at a very slight lean angle. Looks like it's time to work in the parking lot and find the bikes limits.
We arrive at Deals Gap and meet some others from the board. Sorry to say I don't recall everyone's name. I wish I did, and I need to work on this. I know Itchybro was there though. We browsed the shop. Mark showed me the tree of shame. We broke into two groups. One went and road The Cherohala Skyway, and one group of us ran up and back on The Dragon.
Riding The Dragon is what I'd come here to do. I'd started hearing about The Dragon when I found this board. I'd heard all about it. I'd read the web site. Sitting at home I'd felt I was ready. Now that I'd seen what real twisties were, well I was reserved to say the least. Well, like I learned to ski, you just have to do it.
Two guys from our group went out first, followed by myself and Mark. I ride my ride. This is an amazing road. I understand why people come from all over to ride it. It's an incredible test of skills. It's visceral. I was passed by several guys on sport bikes who just disappeared. Mark and I finish our run, turn around and head back. Mark pulled off at an overlook where some others from our party were taking a break. I head on. I'm working the curves and don't want to break the rhythm. A ways later the guys from our group catch up and pass me, one of them on the outside of a curve. I guess he trusted me to hold my line. He's got more faith then I do. I complete my run. I can now say, been there, done that, got the t-shirt.
Not it's time to ride my favorite road from this trip. We head out to ride the Cherohala Skyway, Chris, Shawn, Mark, myself, and I believe Bill (Mr. Pou). Chris lead us through some back roads to get there. Lots of twisties, SUV's pulling fifth wheels crossing the center line on blind curves, gravel on the road. Quite the adventure!
The Cherohala Skyway is... well I'm running out of words. Ride it. Make the time. Do it. This road is far more suited to the RT. Big open sweepers. Just an amazing road. The views. The elevation. For me this was more fun then The Dragon, but each has its place.
Near the intersection of The Skyway and TN-68 we slit into two groups. Shawn and Mr. Pou are headed west and Chris, Mark and I were ultimately headed back east. So, Chris, Mark and I head south on TN-68 to US-64 East. TN-68 was a nice break after the intense riding we'd done all day. As I said earlier this was the hardest most intense riding I've ever done. I could feel myself getting tired. It was time to drop it a notch or two and get home safe. Chris and Mark split off of 64 and headed back towards Atlanta and I continued on to Franklin and a good rest.
Amazing day. Thanks guys!
August 18, 2003: Out and About in NC
This was my day to relax a little and take my time, or so I thought. I headed out US-64 from Franklin past Highlands, NC to NC-215 north to the Blue Ride Parkway back towards Cherokee, NC, then I took NC-441 south back to home base in Franklin, NC.
Well, Shawn, Lone_RT_Rider had described US-64 as a forty mile long Deals Gap. He had taken it to our rendezvous point on Sunday in Franklin. In the difficulty of its corners I didn't find it was quite The Dragon, but in its relentless mile after mile of twisties that were a bit more suited to the RT it was a more enjoyable road. The only draw backs were the traffic, which by and large pulled off to let me through, and the occasional town that had to be droned through.
NC-215 what a find! I love this road. A great mixture of tight twisties intermixed with nice 20-25 mph uphill "S" curves, spiced with a switch back here and there. It's fantastic. It's also very very lightly trafficked. This road is a gem. If you're in Western NC don't miss this road between US-64 and the Blue Ride Parkway.
I say I thought this was my day to relax because 215 was marked as a scenic route and I figured it would be more of an open sweeper type road. Well, it wasn't but that's A-OK with me.
Sittin' on Top of the World
If you haven't ridden The Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP), at least ride the portion between NC-215 and the end at US-441. On this section of the parkway is found its highest point, at over 6,000 feet in elevation. The views even on a misty somewhat over cast day were amazing. At one point the road is literally on the ridge with complete views to both sides of the mountains. You really feel like you're sitting on top of the world, and all it took was a left from NC-215 north onto the parkway.
Riding the ridge line is an amazing experience. There are guard rails, but they are really just decorative and to let people know where to look for the body in a lot of places. It just baffles me that this road was ever built. When you're up on it you are very isolated. There are I think two gas stations in the 400 miles of the parkway. The isolation is interesting. You're isolated from "civilization" but look a little deeper and you connect with nature. You're immersed in it. Creation is laid out for you to see so clearly in all its splendor and majesty.
US-441 between Cherokee and Franklin is most uneventful. Nothing really to write about. With the amount of thinking I've been doing in the hours off the bike my mind started to wander a bit, not good. It was time to call it a day and hunker down for the move to Suches, GA and Two Wheels Only (T.W.O.) tomorrow.
August 19, 2003: T.W.O. -- Home Away from Home
Over the previous weekend I had spoken with a board member of a swing dance site, http://www.yehoodi.com/, I participate in. We have a motorcycle thread where we talk about bikes, our rides, etc. It's an interesting sub-culture of a sub-culture, swing dancers who ride motorcycles. Anyway, Peter reminded me about T.W.O. in GA, gave me the number, I called and they had room. I remember reading about T.W.O. from Kathy and Laney's trip reports, and Peter highly recommended it, but nothing can compete with reality. T.W.O. is a riders heaven. The decor, the ambiance, the grounds, everything is great. I rented a room, as I'm not carrying camping gear with me. (Someday I'll have to try that.) As it turns out I have the whole thing to myself. There is no one camping, in a cabin, room or anywhere. This place is so special I'm disappointed that I don't have anyone to share the experience with. If you need to recharge the battery, find some time away, take a break or whatever, T.W.O. is a great place to do it.
For me this trip is as much a mental process of recovering from five years without a vacation and the dissolution of the IT partnership I was in, and other stuff, as much as it is a motorcycle trip. It's rolling therapy. I don't have an FRS, MP3 player, radio or other source of distraction on the bike. It's just me in my helmet and the road. Me in my room at night, me and my computer, me and me. Time to reflect, time to evaluate, time to project. I think T.W.O. is the best thing I've found.
I rode some great stuff getting to T.W.O. GA-180 is a great road, lots of twisties, but that seems almost secondary to the home away from home today.
One nice note though. I rode down to Dahlonega, GA and they have WiFi access in their town square. It was great to open the iBook and be online. I loaded up a bunch of pages from the BMWMOA site about the Iron Butt for later reading. I was able to check my email and get in touch with people. All in all a great benefit. So, if you find yourself at T.W.O. and you're jonesing for a BMWST.com fix, get out your laptop and head for Dahlonega, GA-60 between Suches and there is a great road.
August 20, 2003: Wild Goose Chase
Well, I checked my oil and I need some. The custom shop in Dahlonega doesn't have what I need, they sent me to a repair guy who as it turns out doesn't stock anything. He sent me to Toosies. Bingo! They have what I need. With all of this and checking email, scheduling my 12k service in Greensboro, NC, coordinating plans with friends in NC, etc. I'm getting a late start on riding today.
I rode the full length of GA-60 from Dahlonega to US-76. Then headed east on US-76 to US-19 and US-129 south. This was a nice road. More suited to my skill level. Nice sweepers, more open site lines. I followed US-19 back to Dahlonega, got dinner and headed home. GA-60 north was wet from a light rain and a bit treacherous. So, I took my sweet time. The smells are amazing when it rains down here. Everything is so alive. People in cars have no idea what they are missing.
Back at T.W.O. a fellow rider, Mike from Sarasota, FL is camping. I won't be the only one at T.W.O. tonight. Finally someone to share this great place with. We sat around the fire, ate some chocolate, drank a little and told each other lies for a while; we connected like riders so easily connect. He even gave me a message to pass onto a Eureka Springs, AR native when I attend the Un. He says I'll have no problem finding the recipient. So, I guess a "quest" has been given to me. I must find J.R. from Eureka Spring, deliver my message and be released from the spell.
All in all a good day, no work, got oil, scheduled my service, did some riding, met a fellow rider. Life is good.
August 21, 2003: Domestic Day
Having been on the road a week now it was time to take care of some domestic concerns. Laundry was the project of the day. It's interesting how you can really minimize when your traveling platform is a motorcycle. I probably brought too much stuff, but hey it fit in the Givi.
Just a short ride today. I met a local rider, Jason, while I was doing my laundry. We rode over GA-180 to US-129 from Suches. This is a great road. Lots of tight twisties and switchbacks. It is very reminiscent of The Dragon. Not quite as intense, but a really nice road. The nice thing is we had the road pretty much all to ourselves. If you ever get to Suches be sure to check this road out. I'm becoming a lot more comfortable with roads like this. GA-180 threw me a little when I was riding into Suches. Today is was nice. Following Jason helped. He showed me great lines. Knowing where to put the bike is so important. I'm getting better at it.
Back at T.W.O. people are showing up. Now there are three additional riders camping. It makes for a nice feel. There are people to share this incredible place with. We can all sup from the waters of riding and feed our souls in a community of riders.
August 22, 2003: Cherohala Skyway Part II
After running the Cherohala Skyway with the guys last Sunday I can't get the road out of my head. I have to ride it again, particularly I need to run in eastbound. We rode it westbound on Sunday. So, I really have to see if it is just as good in the opposite direction.
So, I head up GA-60/TN-68 to Talloca Plains, fuel up at the gas station at the end of the Skyway and proceed to rise into the clouds. There are some huge cumulus clouds hanging low and threatening rain, but surrounded by huge tracts of blue sky. This is special. As I crest the highest point on the pass this huge storm cloud is lifting off to the east. Its tendrils clinging to the mountains, not wanting to let go. The sun is shining its rays upon the mountain, as if saying, "this is my abode, begone," to the storm. The air is pregnant with life. You can feel it; touch it; drink it in. This is magical.
I really truly love this road. The first ride over it I saw a family of wild boar, mothers and piglets, the cycle of life. The second time it was as if God was putting on a performance. The elements making themselves known.
People in cars don't know what they are missing. Today my riding is my mantra, my seating position my asana. Today my riding is a celebration of creation.
After finishing the Skyway I head up to Deals Gap. Some of the others who were at T.W.O. were heading up there. All of them had arrived before me. Not a surprise as I was the last to leave.
Deals Gap is like a Mecca for riders. It draws them as the moth to the flame is drawn. Seeing as today was not my day for pranayama I forwent The Dragon. I sat at the gas station and watched the parade of riders come to challenge The Dragon.
I eventually headed back over the Cherohala and wound my way back to Suches via Blue Ridge, GA to get a bottle of wine. I've defaulted to having a little wine in the evenings. It transports well on the bike, and there are no explosions when you open it like with beer.
On arriving back at T.W.O. I find it alive with riders. The main room is bubbling with activity. Great smells waft on the air from the kitchen. It's time for dinner. If you get to T.W.O. and the kitchen is open for dinner partake. GT and Brit know how to take care of people. The food is excellent, some of the best I have had in the South.
Late in the evening Hamp and his son Tad appeared in the common room. It was immediately apparent they were regulars. I got to know Hamp and Tad over the weekend. Occasionally you meet special people, Hamp and Tad are special people.
It was really nice seeing the common room and the porch come alive with riders. All of us there to commune with each other and interact through the medium of the roads the state of GA had painted upon God's canvass.
August 23, 2003: Saturday at T.W.O.
When I checked in to T.W.O. on Tuesday I noticed a picture someone had taken of the parking lot entitled "T.W.O. On Any Weekend." There are bikes everywhere. The place is packed. I hadn't originally intended to stay in Suches through the weekend, but after seeing the picture I had to see what the place was like on the weekend.
Well, Saturday morning, like in the movie "A Field of Dreams" they came. All throughout the morning riders rode in, hooked up with others and headed out for a day of riding. The program is meet, eat breakfast, ride all day, eat dinner, swap lies on the porch over a drink, repeat. It's like a BMWST.com event all the time.
I myself head out alone. This trip is really about me and helmet time. Me, the bike, the elements and my thoughts. I'm off my ride today. Things aren't working.
I ended up in Morganton and stopped by the Masonic Lodge building. They had a sign outside advertising a fund raiser luncheon. So, I stopped in. I ended up meeting a brother from Ohio who had been to my home town the previous weekend to attend the installation of a friend of mine as Master of Appolo-King Solomon Lodge. Here I was sitting in a small country Lodge in northern GA meeting a brother from OH who had just been at the installation of a friend of mine in my home town the previous weekend. What a small world. Thin threads, we are all joined together by thin threads of incalculable strength one to another.
After sitting with the brothers in Morganton and relaxing for a while it was time to ride again. I did a nice loop south on GA-60 to US-19 north to US-76 west to GA-60 south again back to Suches. I was back on my ride. It was great. I didn't want my last day of riding in GA to be a bad one, and it wasn't.
Daytime on the weekend is impressive at T.W.O., but the evenings are even better. People gather in the main room for dinner, and socializing. The porch is alive with people mingling and talking. It's a magical environment.
August 24, 2003: The Long Haul to Carey, NC
Well Sunday brought the end of my stay at T.W.O. It was time to head for Carey, NC to visit some members of the Yehoodi.com website, and to get the bikes 12k service done.
I got lost in northern GA. I went into several gas stations with the map and had people point at different places on the map to indicate where I was! Uggh! Where am I?!?! Why didn't I get a GPS?!?! I might be lost but at least I'd know where I was lost. Anyway, I finally found my way out of the mess and high tailed it through SC, through Charlotte, NC up I-85 to meet my friends at the range where they were teaching an MSF BRC class.
Did I mention that people in NC are almost as crazy at the people in NJ? A speed limit of 70 means do 90-100 and pass anywhere you damn well please. I haven't seen driving like this since I was on the New Jersey Turnpike doing 100 in a line of traffic and had someone cross over to the right shoulder and pass all of us!! Now it wasn't that bad in NC, but I sure was happy I was on a bike that would keep up.
Cageygirl and Hunkystuff from the Yehoodi.com website put me up for the next two days. I'm an avid swing dancer and they took me to their local Sunday night dance. Damn are the ladies in NC awesome dancers and hot to boot! NC's looking better all the time. Hmm... Raleighs only four hours or so from great riding... and the girls here can dance... and they're friendly... and did I mention they're beautiful?
August 25, 2003: Me Like the SV650!
Today was a day of rest, laundry and catching up on stuff online. Although I did try out Cageygirl's SV650. That is one sweet bike! Now I've never ridden a sport bike before. I got on it and was like... where's the rest of the bike? I'm looking at the front tire. It takes some getting used to. I'm getting to feeling the gotta' have its. I just gotta' sell the V-Star and I can get one.
August 26, 2003: Service Day
I spent most of the day in Carolina BMW getting the 12k done. The highlight of the day was meeting a boxer cup racer. This guy is 26 and has only been riding for six years! He qualified for the Daytona race having never ridden an R1100S before! He races one regularly against SV's and other sport bikes. You really get an appreciation of what real hard riding is like talking with someone like him. He pushes the machine to its limits day in day out. It brings a whole new level of insight into what these bikes will do.
I picked up a new white flip up helmet. I've wanted a white flip up for a while, but no one at home has had any for me to even try on. Here was one, it fit, and I'd tried my friends for the ride to the dealership this morning, about 75 miles, so I bought it and shipped the old helmet home. I will regret this decision...
August 27, 2003: BRP Part I
Today I hauled myself back to the mountains. It's good to be back. I took NC-215 south from Canton to where I had entered the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) on the 18th and ridden south. Today I would start riding north on the BRP. As the ride has evolved I decided I wanted to ride the whole BRP in the course of the trip. When I was headed south on I-81 to meet at Deals Gap I was tempted to head for the parkway. I'm glad I didn't. The BRP takes time to appreciate. It's long, it's scenic, it's special. I'm glad I gave it time. I could have given it more.
Well, the part of NC-215 north of the parkway is nice once you get out of the flat lands. It rises up to meet the parkway in nice s-curves and switchbacks. I touched down the fairing again. I've cranked up the suspension, looks like I need to add a few more turns yet. The road surface here is great. I really like this road. I haven't heard anyone else mention it. Go ride it if you're in NC. It's worth it.
I reached the parkway in good shape time wise. I figured I could make it north of Ashville without too much work. Due to the heat I had taken my face shield off the helmet earlier in the day. It was just too damned hot, even up on the parkway, and I was sick of it falling down on me. I must have lifted it up a few hundred time while on the slab. (Lesson one never make an equipment change in the middle of a long ride.)
The weather was interesting. There were some dark clouds coming in from the west, but no rain yet. There was a lot of moisture in the air though. Unfortunately this made things hazy and the views weren't the best, but the riding was great. It's just amazing riding the ridge line, then descending some and riding on one side of the ridge, passing through a gap and riding on the other side and back and forth and up onto the ridge and down and well you get the idea.
I could see the clouds coming in from the west when I'd get a view that way. I've been riding in the mountains for a while now and I've gotten so I have a sense of the weather. I could tell there wasn't any rain falling yet. Just threats of rain. I've been through this for days now. I wasn't worried... Well I passed through a gap from the east side, where it was sunny out into a drenching rain on the west side. Without the face shield I could barely see!!! I was getting pelted. It was a hard stinging rain. I had to slow way down to be able to see, by time I got to a place I could pull off and get my rain gear on I was soaked and cold. The temperature had really dropped, or least it felt like it did. Anyway, I was soaked, cold and about 5,000 feet up in the air. Not good to say the least. (Lesson two if there's any chance of rain leave the face shield on stupid!)
In my current situation it was time to get off the road. I was near the intersection of the BRP and I-40 just east of Ashville so that's where I pulled off. Short of my goal, but at least I was alive. It was very hairy not being able to see riding in the rain with the drop offs that are on that road. I was thankful to park the bike safely for the night.
August 28, 2003: BRP Part II
Up and out early. Today was one of the best days period! I rode from Ashville to Roanoke, VA. The last 40 miles were hair raising. The road was wet, but not cleaned off. It seemed there were deer everywhere. I got to test out the awesome stopping power of the RT's ABS brakes on a slick surface. I can testify they work. I was glad I had them. I got home safe and Bambi is free to roam the country side.
This section of BRP is great. There are lots of parks and things to see. I rode up Mount Mitchell. I felt like I was parking at a BMW meet. There were some other types of bikes up there, but the majority were beemers. It felt weird to be in the majority. They were from all over the place. That seems to be the norm, put a bunch of BMW's together and your likely to find a lot of states represented.
Mount Mitchell is the highest point east of the Mississippi River. The views were not that good though as the air was heavy with tropical moisture. Someone told me October is the month to visit here. So, I may swing by on the way home from the UnRally. I think it'll be worth the detour.
Today I also saw great waterfalls, streams, incredible vistas with the mist rising. I now know why they call some of these mountains smokey. It rises like smoke. Reaching its wispy tendrils towards the sky. Hundreds of them.
At one of the only fill stations on the parkway a gentlemen driving a church van full of kids heading out to go hiking spied the bike and struck up a conversation. He really liked the RT. He's done some parts of the BRP on a friends 900cc airhead a few years ago. He plans on crossing the nation on one when he retires. I love meeting people like this. For me it's an integral part of the ride. People! The bike is like a magnet. People just start talking. They open up.
I found a hotel with some Internet access. I was able to communicate with the crew headed to Killington, VT for the Killington Classic. I'm in. Killington will be my base for getting to ME and Old Orchard Beach. I need to see the ocean. It seems like a fitting way point. My way-point zulu. I will take off the boots and socks and stand in the surf and have someone take my picture. Who knows how many miles are left. Way-point Zulu...
August 29, 2003: BRP Part III & Bristol, VA -- Internet!
The northern section of the BRP is no where near as interesting as what I've ridden so far. It rolls through pastoral farms and hill country. Nothing I would describe as mountainous. It's beautiful, but different and less intense then the southern section. It is very mind clearing and there are very few distractions. It's nice being on a road without any commercial traffic.
I had originally planned on heading into West Virginia when I got done with the BRP. I started in but decided that I couldn't do it justice and make it down to Deals Gap to meet up with Buck and Candi on Sunday. So I headed down I-81 to Bristol, VA. The Motel 6 there has high speed Internet access in the rooms. So, it seemed like a good place to get off the bike. I downloaded a lot of email, caught up on BMWST.com, got food and hit the sack. Tomorrow it would be back to the mountains of NC and TN!
August 30, 2003: Dragon Redux -- The Litany Against Fear
Quote:
"I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain." --The Bene Gesserit Litany Against Fear from Dune by Frank Herbert
Through a series of wrong turns and miscalculations I've found myself in TN with the shortest path between me and my hotel taking me through the Dragon. I rode the Dragon two weeks prior and I did ok, but today I'm spooked. I did it two weeks ago, but it wasn't my kind of riding. But here I am in TN and looking at a lot of miles out of my way if I want to avoid it, and beat the rain I know is on its way. I've been a fan of Frank Herbert's Dune books for many years. One of the things I've always remembered from them is the Litany Against Fear.
Like I say, I was really spooked. I really didn't want to ride through the Dragon again, but it was that or go a long way out of the way to get to my destination. I began to recite the litany and headed for the gap. I rode it two weeks prior. I can do it again. I got myself under control and it turned out to be one of my best rides of the whole trip. I was on. My last time through I got passed by a lot of people. This time through people were waving me through. I guess I've learned a lot in two weeks.
The trip through the pass took a lot out of me. I don't know why I let feelings of self doubt sneak in, but I did. I had to face them and work through it, and I'm glad I did. I was so reticent about riding through there again, and I am so glad I did. I faced my fear and mastered it. In the end it was a great run.
The weather turned pretty nasty after I arrived at the Fontana Resort where I'd be meeting Buck, Candi and the members of their group. They showed up around 9 o'clock after riding through some nasty weather. I'd met Buck and Candi at Mayhem, and it was great to renew the fellowship and meet Buck's brother Tod and their friend George.
We got dinner, swapped ride tales and renewed our friendship. No Glenlivet this time though.
August 31, 2003: The Cherohala Skyway and the Sign of the Covenant
We headed up to Deals Gap to see if anyone else from the board would show up. Mr. Pou was there and one other person who had seen the posting. Buck, Mr. Pou and Tod ran the Dragon a few times. Then we headed for the Cherohala Skyway, my favorite road.
Mr. Pou led on the NC to TN leg. What a ride. Two weeks ago this pace would have had me white knuckled and tense. Today I was relaxed, leaning and just having a blast. What an amazing piece of road.
Mr. Pou had to head back home in TN so he departed from Teleco Plains to go grill for the family. Buck, Candi, Tod, George and myself headed back toward NC. There had been intermittent rain all day, nothing that would be considered a down pour, but not quite dry. The skyway is basically an east west road. A storm had come in from the north west and passed over the skyway and was retreating toward the east as we headed up. The sun was at our back and it was an incredible view. Seeing these huge dark, brooding storm clouds over the road. We'd been in and out of our rain gear, so if we had to put it on again, so be it. We were here to ride and we were going to ride. The weather wasn't going to stop us.
Quote:
And God said, "I have set my rainbow in the clouds, and it will be the sign of the covenant between me and the earth." -- Genesis Chap. 9
We stopped at the mile high over look and took a group photo, mounted back up and rounded the next curve to see the most amazing rainbow I've ever seen. We had to pull over. Buck took a picture which he's already posted.
I'll just paint my picture with words because the photo doesn't do it justice. The rainbow didn't go away. It wasn't a flash in the pan. We chased this rainbow for pretty much the rest of the skyway. I would venture to say a half hour or more. It just hung in there. We would round a curve and it would be extending up from the valley floor arching over the mountain to the south, so close you felt you could reach out and touch it. Then it would be reigning from mountain top to mountain top. Then it would be rising from the valley floor again and extending off over the mountains to the north on the other side of the valley. Then it would double up and there would be two rainbows. It was a mystical experience. I wish you could have been there.
September 1, 2003: The Long Haul to Washington, DC -- Zen Time
Today I rode from Fontana, NC to the Washington, DC area.
Up and out early. I think I'm the first person to get under way. There are a lot of bikes in the parking lot. It is Labor Day weekend after all. I pack the bike and get going. I have to say good bye to these incredible mountains. I've spent a bit of time here in the past two weeks. I'm going to miss this place.
I headed east on NC-28 out of Fontana Village. It was getting more light out and some of the views were real nice, but one in particular was a near religious experience. Near the intersection of NC-28 and US-129 there is an overlook on the west bound side of the road. I was headed east bound, but the view was so incredible I doubled back to take a look.
Before me was a vista of mountains and valleys as far as the eye could see in the mists. Cradled in the valleys are deposits of fog. The sun was just starting to warm the valleys and the mists were starting to burn off and rise up the sides of the mountains. Hundreds of individual fingers rising up to heaven. Extending their reach. Awakening from another nights slumber. The earth coming to life before my eyes.
I was originally just going to make a bee line for Ashville and pick up the Interstate. Riding along I see a sign for the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP). I can't resist. Time for a detour. I went right to the beginning in Cherokee. Onto the parkway I rise into the clouds. It's cold up here, and I can't see very well. It's worth it. I'm sure. The sun is going to come up, heat things up and the ceiling is going to rise over me. That's exactly what happened. God raised the curtain on a new day, and I have front row seats on the BRP. I round a curve and the mountains are smoking. This is amazing. I'm riding in and out of clouds watching the world come alive. I feel so alive. God is great!
Unfortunately my time on the BRP came to and end and I headed onto I-40. This type of riding is Zen time as I call it. Long tracts of straight interstate. The traffic was a little heavy due to the Labor Day weekend, but all in all a good ride. Lots of time to think. Southern VA with it's mile upon mile of pine forests is beautiful. Buck was telling me about riding in a pine forest in Canada, after being in the one in VA I look forward to getting up there.
There are different types of riding, and this trip has had a lot of them. Today was a good riding day. I only got rained on in the last five miles or so, and it was nice.
My friend Mark saw me rounding the corner into his neighborhood and had the garage open so I could ride right in. He put the cars outside, in his words, "bikes go inside," or something like that.
The Circle of Life
The purpose of coming to DC was to catch up with Mark and Keri and meet their new beautiful daughter. Sam is about nine months old. She is amazing. They tell me she's a shy one, but we got along just fine exchanging smiles and me making stupid baby sounds at her. I wonder if infants think all of us adults are crazy. Hmmm???
Mark and Keri had a great meal ready for me with fine wine. I had been thinking to myself while on the road, "I'm having good wine tonight." Keri didn't disappoint. You see she's a wine expert. With impeccable taste and an ability to match people with wines, and they have a depth of selection at home. So, availability is never an issue.
I don't think I would have visited Mark and Keri if it wasn't for the RT. It's weird how a motorcycle, and the things attached to it can change a person. I'm so glad I stopped to see them on this trip. I was so relaxed. So present in the moment. I don't think that would have been the case before this trip, my energies were scattered and unfocused.
September 2, 2003: Catching Up
Today was a non-riding day. I just relaxed and shared time with old friends and their daughter Sam, and well we had to share some more fine food and wine.
September 3, 2003:
I got a late start today. I only need to make it to northern NJ. So, I took my time.
I headed north on I-95. I used to live in Newark, DE when I was pursuing a competitive ice skating career. So, I stopped by the ice rink where I used to train. I figure I haven't seen the place in 14 years, why not take a look.
Quote:
"What do you despise, by this are you truly known." -- The Manual of Muad'dib by the Princess Irulan
It hasn't changed. It's still full of kids who are there because their parent say they have to be, serious skaters who are dedicated and a whole spread of others. The head coach was sitting right where I'd last seen him 14 years ago. So, I walked over to him and said hello. He started carrying on as if I was his long lost returned friend. From the questions he was asking it was plainly obvious that I was being patronized for the "benefit" of making him look good to his current students, who were standing at the rail. He had no idea who I was. I learned what I despise. I despise being patronized. I've had the quote above hanging on my wall for a long time. The paper is quite yellowed. If you had asked me what I despised before I walked over to my old coach I wouldn't have been able to tell you. Now I feel it in my bones.
Being around riders I have discovered so many genuine people. In my work in Freemasonry I have discovered more genuine people. In recent years I have surrounded myself in genuine people. Getting out on the road and being by myself for day upon day I knew I wanted to be around people who are genuine and true to themselves. This event was so stark it really drove the point home. I love genuine people. Life's to short to be anything else. You never know when you're number is going to get called.
On my way out I watched the skaters practicing for a while. It was interesting. What I saw were kids struggling with commitment. They were afraid to lay the skate over and let it do its thing. They were unwilling to bend their knees and let the blade cut the ice. I realized I was watching the same thing that I had struggled with when I started riding the bike down in NC, TN and GA. I was unwilling to commit. I got over it, started to commit and my riding transformed. I wanted to walk out on the ice and tell this one girl in particular who was struggling to just relax and commit. "Just do it." is such a tired phrase, but in some cases it is so true. You just have to commit yourself and do it.
The traffic in NJ was horrible. My fault. I should have left earlier.
September 4, 2003: Ride to Killington, VT
Up and out early to meet the crew to ride to Killington. I was the last one to arrive at the meeting point. Laura (millerlc), Marty, Carol, Don and Cindy, and Dave (Voodoo) were all there. Don led us on a nice ride until his GPS got us onto a dirt road. I'd ridden about 5,000 miles to this point and I'd managed to avoid dirt, and here I was on the last leg of this journey and here I was on a dirt road. Oh well. So, we turned around and Dave led us out of there. We all had a good lunch in Great Barrington. Dave parted company with us and headed back to NY. This is when I took point.
This was my first experience leading a group of people on BMW's. Well, I took it a little too slow. When we got near North Adams Laura asked me to kick it up a notch. She didn't have to ask twice. As soon as we got outside the confines of the city we were off. Finally we were on some interesting roads. Up until this point we had been riding on wet roads, finally they were drying out.
We had been in and out of rain gear since we left NY. The weather just couldn't decide what it wanted to do. Once we got into VT things cleared up. We took VT-100 all the way from the MA/VT border to Killington.
Dry roads, Laura said, "kick it up a notch." Well, that's all I needed. I was in my element. I learned to ride on roads like this in the Adirondacks. With the stuff I've learned riding down south VT-100 was easy. It wouldn't have been before this trip, but now it was. I really got into a great groove.
This trip did a lot for my level of comfort on the bike. There's nothing like saddle time to achieving oneness with the bike. I really felt it all coming together on VT-100. Once the road dried out I was "seeing" the lines through the curves. It was a moment of enlightenment.
I particularly remember a 90 degree right hander over a bridge to a slightly uphill 90 degree left hander that I just absolutely pegged. It was a real rush. Brake, down shift, lean right... whoosh over the bridge... hard braking, off the front brake, trail the rear, down shift, apex, whoosh.... It was a real breakthrough moment. I "saw" the line, and just nailed it. It was really cool. Everything worked. I was relaxed. The bike did it's thing. It was beautiful.
September 5, 2003: Ice Cream Ben & Jerry's Style
Myself, Laura, Marty and Carol formed up early and headed out on the self guided tour to Ben and Jerry's. It was a nice ride up VT-100 and then back through Montpelier the state capitol. All in all a good day. There was a great piece of road on VT-12 south of Montpelier. I had a local in a car that was really pressing hard so we road together for a while. I occasionally like doing this on an unfamiliar road. I figure the local has some idea of what the curves are like, where to slow down, etc. It was great fun. Let's put it this way there's no way I would have ridden my car that fast on that road.
When we got closer to Killington a guy on a sport bike passed me. I picked the pace up a little and hung right with him. Very comfortably. I didn't feel like I was pushing. What a break through.
September 6, 2003: Way-point Zulu -- Old Orchard Beach, ME
Today was the day. I would ride to what had become the "end point" for me. My way-point Zulu. When I began this ride I didn't know where I was going, other then to Deals Gap to ride the Dragon. Once I was into it I decided I wanted to ride in every state in the Appalachian Mountain Chain. Well, the only ones left at this point were NH and ME. I used to go to Old Orchard for summer vacations when I was a kid. So, for me it became a fitting place to aim for.
Today wasn't so much about the ride as it was about the destination. Very different from other days. The roads in VT and NH were very nice. I took US-4 east to NH-118 north to NH-112 east to US-302 east. NH-118 and NH-112 are well worth riding. 112 was a little busy with tourists, but 118 was a delight and had significant portions that were newly paved. Nice curvy road, a little off camber in places, but nice.
The roads in ME were boring, but that was OK. I was getting close.
This trip was a victory for me. When I first starting riding in 2001 I was diagnosed with reactive arthritis (ReA). My particular case really took the energy out of me, and my body hurts pretty much all the time from the waist down. In 2001 when I took a day long ride I could pretty much plan on spending the next day in bed, or at least on the couch recovering. So, I would ride on Saturdays and recover on Sundays. I loved riding, but it really took it out of me.
I started feeling a bit better in 2002, and was able to ride more, but it still took a lot out of me, but I coped better. ReA can go into remission over time, and I think some of that has happened, and that I've learned to cope and deal with it. I've gotten back a lot of energy, but the pain hasn't gone away.
Well, when I rode into Old Orchard Beach I felt an incredible sense of accomplishment. I had reclaimed my life and this was the symbol. I had made it. I had reached my Way-point Zulu. I ate lunch on the beach, bought a camera and headed down to the surf. I took my boots off, hiked up my pants and walked out into the surf up to my knees. I asked a lady who was passing by if she would take some pictures of me. I explained that this was the "end" of a long motorcycle ride. I wish I had gotten her name. She seemed to understand the importance of capturing this moment. I can't put into words what it felt like to stand there with my feet in the Atlantic Ocean. It seems so simple, yet it was so profound.
I returned to Killington a changed man.
September 7, 2003: Victory Lap and the Ride Home
Today is the last day. This tale comes to an end. Today was my victory lap. My last day of the Tour de France.
I rode north on VT-100 to VT-17 east through Appalachian Gap. This is a great road. It is worth of being in the Smokeys. Worthy of being called a "gap." I stopped and snapped a picture at the overlook. I purchased the camera yesterday, so I need to use the pictures up. The climb through Appalachian Gap is a great ride. It's entrance, apex, exit... entrance, apex, exit... repeat. Definitely the most technical road I've found in VT. If you're ever in the neighborhood check it out.
I took 17 into NY then took NY-9N north to NY-73 west to NY-86 west to NY-30 south to NY-28N east to County-2 east of Newcomb, NY. It was getting late in the day and I had planned a get together at the local brew pub to reconnect with my friends and regale them with stories from the road. So, when 2 intersected I-87 I jumped on 87 and road home to Troy on the slab.
Here's a pic of the falls in Ticonderoga, NY.
There are two roads to note from today. NY-30 from the NY-86 intersection south to the intersection with NY-3 is a really nice road. Nice curves, I won't call them twisties anymore, and a lot of new blacktop. The other find was County-2 between NY-28N and I-87. This is a great road. Good surface and not a lot of traffic. The intersection on 28N is unlabeled so you really need to be looking for it. There is a route sign on 2 just in from the intersection. Both of these roads are well worth riding if you're in Upstate NY.
I've arrived home at about 5:30 PM. The ride is over. I haven't reset the trip odometer since I left. It reads exactly 6,617.0 miles. Definitely the longest ride I've ever taken.
Here's a picture of the bike the next day. A little dirty, but damn did it do a fine job.
September 18, 2003: Epilogue
I was gone for 24 days of which I rode 22. I averaged almost exactly 300 miles a day on my riding days. It doesn't sound like much, but it was to me.
I'm a changed man. I don't know that I can quantify all of the changes, but I am changed. I never thought that a ride on a motorcycle would be such an incredible experience. Sure, I knew a ride like I took would be incredible, but I had no idea how incredible.
This ride came at an interesting time in my life, an inflection point. I was a partner in an IT consulting company up until a few weeks before I left. The partnership dissolved like so many do, and I found myself free to do what I wanted for a while. I purchased the RT in March with the intent on doing a lot of riding. At that time I figured I'd maybe do 10,000 miles. Well I've done over 14,000 so far and I've still got Torrey, the UnRally and El Paseo II to go.
Quote:
"Lend your voices only to sounds of freedom... fill your lives with love and bravery and you shall lead a life uncommon." -Jewel Kilcher from Life Uncommon/Spirit (1998)
Anyway, when I started this journey I had a lot on my mind; I had just left my third Internet related business; I'm 33 and single and I would prefer not to be; I just finished two years as Master of my Masonic Lodge and they made me secretary (It's a lot of work and responsibility I didn't want.); and things I'm probably now forgetting.
One of the things echoing in my head was a song by Jewel off of her Spirit album. I don't know how long I've had the CD, but it's been a long time. The song I have never been able to get out of my head is "Life Uncommon." It rings out from the album like an anthem, a challenge, a call to action, a call to higher purposes. I connected with it the first time I heard it. Then Jewel recorded a Holiday album and there it was again. This time with a full backing choir. Not that the recording is the important part. It's the message. Anyway, that message had haunted me for a long time. It was so powerful for me. The hard part was I had to grow to the point where I could admit that I wasn't living the life I wanted and what she was singing about was the life I wanted to lead.
So, what does this have to do with a Ride Tale? Well, I had a lot of time to think. The message of the song helped me make the decision to leave the partnership I was in. To strike out on my own and take a different path. To make the scary decisions. So, many people live a life cowed by the strictures of society, I can't do that anymore. Well 22 days of wind noise and I was sure I'd made the right decision. I will only lend my voice, my strength, my being to things that liberate others. I will love deeply and do the things that scare me. I will not lead a common life.
So, with this posting I'm changing my handle. I want something that reflects the changes I've experienced, and that are ongoing. Seeing as the song, "Life Uncommon," was so pivotal and the message so palpable for me I decided on Vita Rara. As close as I can tell that is the latin translation of life uncommon. I think it more clearly reflects me today, and also reflects the riding lifestyle in general. Riding is a life uncommon.
If it wasn't for this board I don't think I ever would have taken this journey. I have many of you to thank, but a few in particular. I already thanked some of you in my first tease about this tale. I won't reiterate those now. There are many I could thank, but the list would be long so here are a few.
Laney, Jedi Streamwalker, I've never met you in person, but I feel like I know a little part of you. On the BRP I stopped by a stream and remembered your tale of riding with Kathy and getting your feet wet in the stream by the side of the road. This was when I got the idea for my Way-point Zulu. I sat there and almost took my boots off to get my feet wet in the water, but it wasn't quite right. That's when I thought of Old Orchard Beach, and standing in the surf. I remember when you were struggling with the whole riding thing and someone said to read the tale of yours and Kathy's ride. I did and was inspired by it. Thank you.
Dick Frantz, Master Yoda, there were times when your posts were opaque to me. They aren't anymore. Thank you for your explanations. Thank you for your example. Thank you for teaching me how to sit on my bike.
Marty Hill, the Energizer Bunny, thank you for showing by example how small our great nation is.
Cary and Dave; Cary for starting this board. Dave for keeping it running today.
Jamie and Leslie, thank you for sharing so deeply with this community. If it wasn't for Jamie's experience with his recovery from cancer and how important reading this site was I don't think I would have finished writing this tale. I learned from Jamie that we know each other from our rides, and sharing them. Thank you.